There is NO escape...Devil's Island (6/10/17)

Ile du Diable (Devil’s Island) is actually one of three small islands called Iles du Salut located just off the shore of French Guiana in South America.  The island we visited is actually Ile Royal, the largest of the three islands.  There is no way for a ship’s tender to actually land on Devil’s Island, so you can only actually view it from the ship or Ile Royal.  Discovered in 1503, and still considered part of France, it is best known for its’ use as a penal colony from 1852 through 1946.  It is part of the European Union, using the Euro, and is the most prosperous territory in South American with the GDP per capita.

There were no organized tours today, as the island is not really developed.  After a short tender ride, we decided on one of the three paths available to the top of the island where most of the old prison buildings are located.  We opted for the longest, least strenuous path.  Although we have crossed back to the northern hemisphere, it is still very hot and humid as the islands are only about 4-degrees north latitude.  As we leisurely made our way along the path, really an access road, we spotted our first wildlife, an Agouti.  Really, a large rodent, reaching 2 feet in length, it raced across the road in front of us and into the thick vegetation.  Little did we know that we did not need to rush to get a picture, as we would be encountering several more through the day.

The highlights of our walk to the top were the small monkeys that were everywhere.  As we rounded a curve, several other passengers were gathered in a small group on the path.  Two squirrel monkeys were sitting on a branch very close to the road.  They appeared to be posing.  As we drew closer, they hopped to a different branch and then began to play what seemed to be the equivalent of tag.  Every 10-20 yards, they entertained us for the remainder of our hike to the top.

Also on the path, we passed at what is called the children’s cemetery.  I was curious as to why children would be at a penal colony.  The reason lies in fact that the guards were also permanent residents of the islands and therefore lived there with their families.   Being at Devil’s Island was a harsh life for not only the convicts, but also for the guards.  Disease killed almost 85% of the convicts before they completed their sentences.  Even today, Yellow Fever is still rampant, although we did not encounter any mosquitoes on our visit to the island.

Life at Devil’s Island was known for its harsh treatment of mostly political prisoners.  It is thought to be escape-proof, due primarily to being so remote, but the guards would also throw meat into the surrounding waters to ensure that the waters would be shark infested.  Henri Charriere, a former prisoner that claimed to have escaped, published a memoir of his time there.  However, prison records indicate that he was never on Devil’s Island, but actually served time on the mainland.  The book was later made into a movie, Papillion, which was available for us to watch in our cabins during the cruise.

Once we made our way to the top, we explored the mostly abandoned buildings.  A chapel was being renovated and the original reception building has been converted to a guesthouse, with a small coffee shop.  A few of the old cellblocks are currently used as housing for those that work at the Guiana space tracking station located on the island.  French Guiana has been the equatorial launch site for the European Union since 1964 and is found on the mainland a couple of miles away.

The area around the old buildings provides additional wildlife sightings.  An old quarry held turtles, lizards and even a black caiman.  We spotted lots of the Agouties, free-range peacocks and Macaws.  We opted for the same path back to the tender launch as several people reported that the steps on the other paths were very slippery and a few passengers had already fallen.  The island was much more interesting than I expected and those we talked with were very glad that it was on our itinerary.  We were also lucky to actually make it ashore, as the channel where we anchored is quite narrow and usually too rough to use the ship’s tenders.

Link to today's photos:

Devil's Island photos (6/10/17)

Wedding of the Waters...Santarem, Brazil (6/7/17)

Our original itinerary had us visiting Santarem on our way up the Amazon, but we skipped the port due to the currents and the amount of time we spent at the technical stop in Macapa.  It was moved to the downriver segment of the trip and we skipped Alter da Chao.  The heat and humidity are not as bad as we make our way to Atlantic and the mouth of the Amazon.

Home to the Wedding of the Waters, as opposed to the Meeting of the Waters by Manaus, Santarem was settled by the Portuguese in 1661.  The area was also home to the Tapajos Indians and the Portuguese named the nearby river after them calling it Rio Tapajos.  It the confluence of the Tapajos and the Amazon that creates the Wedding of the Waters.  After missing the Meeting of the Waters, we arose quite early this morning, as we did not want to miss our last chance to experience this unique phenomenon.  We were not disappointed.  For several minutes, we viewed the two different colored waters as they ran side by side with a sharp line delineating the two.  Soon we observed a swirling of the colors and then only the uniform color of the Amazon.

Santarem, a city of over 300,000, has an agricultural economy.  Although Henry Ford attempted to produce rubber here, it was a failure.  However, he did build several large plantations that today are used to grow coffee and soybeans.  Cargill has a large granary here and ships soybeans around the world from Santarem.

We did not visit the city of Santarem, but instead opted for a River Tour and Maica Lake by riverboat.  The three-hour excursion travelled along the waterfront of the Santarem, down a river and into the lake.  The trip offered some of the best bird watching opportunities of the trip so far.  Many are included in today’s pictures, but we could only see some others, as they were too quick to photograph.  During the cruise, we finally saw a three toed sloth!  She also appeared to have a baby sloth clinging to her, but we could not be sure.  The trip included another stop to fish for piranha.  We opted out this time, choosing to be entertained by the lively parrots that were singing and flying from tree to tree.

Everywhere we travelled, it was evident that the river level was very high.  Most of the homes were underwater or only the second floor was usable.   Most homes do not have electricity or running water.  We saw buffalo in a fenced in pasture, but you could only see the heads.  The locals refer to the people who live here as River people.  They travel everywhere by boat, but mostly needed services come to them; Medical and dental services are provided from a floating clinic, a yellow boat picks up children to take them school, they even have floating gas stations that make their way up and down the river.

Fishing is a very import part of the local diet.  We saw people fishing with poles, but we also saw nets for larger fish and cages used for catching shrimp.  The chef has prepared a feast of local fish dish each day we have been on the Amazon.  Our time on the river is almost over, which means will be crossing the equator again and back to the northern hemisphere and, more importantly, the ship will be able to make fresh water again.

Link to photos below:
Santarem, Brazil photos 6/7/2017

This town is full of bull...Parintins, Brazil (6/6/17)

Located on the island of Tupinambarana in the Amazon River, the city of Parintins has a little over 100,000 inhabitants.  For locals, it is a 25 hour riverboat ride from Manaus, but, in 2006, they joined the 21^st century when the Intel World Ahead Program introduced computers and satellite broadband to the community.

Parintins also hosts the second largest annual festival in Brazil, Festival Boi-Bumba, also known as Festival Folclorico de Parintins and Bumba Meu Boi.  Carnival in Rio de Janeiro is the largest.  During the last weekend is June, the town population doubles, with many visitors sleeping on riverboats due to the lack of hotel rooms.

The festival centers around a legend based on a resurrected bull and combines Brazil’s Portuguese and indigenous heritages.  The community has built a U-shaped stadium called the Bumbodromo that holds 35,000 people.  Two local groups plan and practice year round for the lively and brightly colored competition between the Boi Capirchoso (Blue team) and Boi Garantido (Red team).  Each team has about 4000 members including musicians and dancers.  Teams are judged based on costumes, choreography, rhythm and music.  References to the teams, festival, and competition can be seen everywhere in the town.  During our time in Parintins, the city hosted a mini Boi-Bumba show for the passengers of the Navigator.  It was enjoyed by all who attended. 

We walked the town, but found that most shops were closed from noon to 2pm.  We found a few open air food vendors and enjoyed looking at the local vegetables.  We also noticed a chicken coop located in the middle of the street at a busy intersection and made a lot of KFC drive through jokes.  We purchased a couple of t-shirts, mandatory on all cruises, and a couple of trivets that were painted by a local artist while you watched.

Link to photos:

Parintins photos 6/6/17

Lions & Tigers & Bears, Oh my; NO it's Monkeys & Sloths & Toucans!...Manaus & EcoLodge (6/4-5/17)

This is the most anticipated part of the trip.  It is the reason we sprayed our clothing with Permethrin, purchased ankle high waterproof hiking boots and spent the previous day drinking lots of water.  It is the reason we called our blog the Amazon ADVENTURE 2017.

Our trek started at 8:15am, as we were the first ones off the ship.  Our small group of eleven boarded our tour bus and met our guide Edi; she is Caboclo and will accompany our group until we return to the ship.  Our ride to the pier, where we boarded a boat, took us through the city of Manaus.

Manaus is the capital of the Brazilian state of Amazonas.  Located 900 miles from the mouth of the Amazon, it is considered the “Paris of the Jungle”.  With more than 2.1 million inhabitants, it is located at the confluence of the Rio Negro River and the Solimoes section of the Amazon.  Here you will find the famed “Meeting of the Waters” or where the black colored Rio Negro River joins the milky coffee colored Amazon.  The two rivers move at different speeds and have very different acidity.  This causes them to flow side by side until the Rio Negro commingles with the Amazon.  Unfortunately, we did get to see this as, when we passed it on our way into Manaus the sun was not yet up.  On our way out, the ship held a mandatory Life Boat drill refresher during the time it was visible.

We did have an excellent view of the Rio Negro Bridge.  A very modern structure, it is over two miles in length and can accommodate larger cargo ships, allowing improved access to cities further up the river.  We docked at a unique floating pier.  Because the height of the Amazon varies widely between the wet and dry sessions, Manaus has a pier that floats and can adjust to the current river level.  The current river level is 29 meters, tying an all-time record and, due to the recent rains and is expected to rise even further and set a new record.  After seeing the river at its highest, we would love to return and experience the dry season.

We arrived at the EcoPark after our high-speed boat ride.  We enjoyed a welcome beverage, dropped our luggage at the reception desk, and immediately boarded a small boat.  The boats are narrow and very shallow to enable navigation in the small tributaries of the many river branches.  Entering the boat itself was activity we would repeat multiple times and it required both balance and nimbleness.  First, you stepped on the bow of the boat and then down to the “deck”.  The journey continued as you stepped over each row of seats heading towards the stern.  Once you found your row, you raised the seat back of the last row you climbed over, so the next person could sit in that row.  To exit the boat, the entire process was reversed.  Of note, stepping over each row was not easy for those of us who are vertically challenged.   Those that are blessed with long legs had their own issue as the boat also had a top that did not allow one to stand.

Once we were loaded up, we traveled down several channels adjacent to the park.  This afforded us an opportunity to see the jungle up close.  Since the water level is at its peak, much of what we were seeing was usually high up in the tree canopy.  The diversity of the dense vegetation was overwhelming.  In terms of wildlife, we mostly saw birds (Crested Caracara and a Flycatcher among them) during this outing as most of the jungle comes awake at night.  We went a little deeper into the jungle on the last channel we visited.  Here our guide turned off the small outboard motor and we experienced the quiet of our environment.  This silence would be very different from the sounds of the jungle at night.

Our “resort” is located close to a monkey island, so we headed there next; this is a sanctuary that works with monkeys that need rehabbing or have been orphaned.  We unloaded from the boat and made our way up to a viewing area.  The monkeys are free to roam all of the large sanctuary, but several times a day, fresh fruit is put out - allowing visitors to view the monkeys in their natural environment.  Here we saw a female Bald Uakari, a red-faced monkey.  Unfortunately, she is believed to be the last of her kind.  The sanctuary had a mating couple, but the alpha male from a different species killed the male Uakari.  We also were able to see Common Squirrel Monkeys and Woolly Monkeys, including one female with her baby hanging on tightly riding piggyback.

Leaving the sanctuary, we returned to the lodge, checked in and had lunch.  We had been warned that the accommodations would be minimal, so we were not surprised by our room (no TV, a more than firm bed, and definitely no internet access).  The room was air conditioned, but that was the only oasis from the heat and humidity.  If you have ever been in a steam room fully clothed, you might have some idea of the experience.  Although our bedroom was air conditioned, our bathroom was not!  Have you ever tried to dry off in 100% humidity?  We ate all our meals at the open-air dining room; the reception area and bar were also outside, including an area with a pool table.

The EcoPark grounds themselves provide wildlife-viewing opportunities.  Before our next excursion, we had an hour or so to walk the grounds. We observed a monkey in the treetops and several species of birds, including a Scarlet Macaw who liked to frequent both the reception and dining areas.  The park usually has a large beach area, but due to the high water, very little was visible.  We did see some other guests swimming at the “beach”, though this was a bit frightening considering the fact that other guests were fishing for piranha off the dock less than 200 feet away! This did not deter another Crested Caracara from sunning himself on the beach.  A few in our group spotted a Sloth resting in a tree, but he had moved on when we tried to find him.

Mid-afternoon, we climbed back into the boats to visit a Caboclo home.  As mentioned in a previous post, these locals are the descendants of the union of Portuguese men and native Amazonian Indian women.  The home had many display areas and we moved from one to the next as Edi provided commentary.  We learned about the medicinal value of jungle plants, how vegetables are turned into a grain-like product (Yucca is grated, the water is rung out, then it the cooked over an open fire) and how vulcanized rubber was produced by the natives during the rubber boom.

The rubber boom began in Manaus following the discovery of the vulcanization process by Charles Goodyear.  The Amazon area provided the rubber trees and the local population provided the labor for the highly labor intensive process.  Under the direction of sometimes-brutal rubber barons, the locals were exposed to hard work and working conditions.  However, the mostly Portuguese barons thrived and used their vast resources to bring in the best that Europe had to offer to Manaus.  The center of Manaus is home to the famed Opera House.  Completed in 1897, it is built almost entirely of stone imported from Europe, took over 30 year to complete at a cost of $10 million.  Many buildings in Manaus were built using stone brought from Europe; once the rubber cargo exported from Brazil was offloaded, the ships needed ballast for the return trip, so stone was used – then used for the building boom that was underway in Manaus!

Rubber production declined rapidly in the early part of the 1900’s as seeds were taken to England, where they were germinated and then exported to Sri Lanka and other suitable lands held by the United Kingdom.  England then became the primary producer of rubber in the world and by the 1940’s, Brazil contributed less than 1%, contributing to the decline of the Manaus economy.

Next up on our excursion list was Piranha fishing.  Danny (a local that drove our boat), baited our bamboo poles with a little beef and we learned how to tap the water with the tips of the pole and to pull swiftly up when we felt a tug on the line.  We were not terribly successful, even though we tried two different “fishing” spots.  Most of us just lost our bait.  One “fisherman” in a nearby boat was successful.  We did have more success in the bird sights; over looking our fishing spot was a Channel-billed Toucan.  Our afternoon outing concluded and we had a few hours to walk the grounds or cool off in our room.  I bought a beer at the alfresco bar and headed to the air- conditioned room!  One must stay hydrated in the jungle.

As sunset approached, we gathered by the dock and once again maneuvered our way onto the small boats.  It was time to go Caiman hunting!  This consisted of a guide standing at the bow of the boat and, as we worked our way into one of the channels, he would shine a bright light along the “riverbank” which, due to the extremely high water level, consisted mostly of dense trees and vegetation.  We were looking for the eyes of the Caiman which will reflect the bright light.  Now, I do not want to impugn the voracity of the event, but I do believe this entire scenario was staged.  Although several times we believe we saw those shiny eyes, we passed right on by them.  Suddenly the boat turned into a little cove and the guide flashed his light into the area, however no eyes did we ever see.  Danny (our local boy driving the boat), suddenly slipped into the water, put a small flashlight in his mouth and off into the dense greenery he went.  We were told not to take any flash photos during this time.  After a few words spoken in the local language and little thrashing of water, Danny emerged with a Caiman complete with his mouth tied shut.  A very impressive feat while treading water and holding a flashlight in your mouth!  The little fellow was brought aboard for all to touch and photograph.  Just as we finished, another boat pulled up alongside.  So far, their hunting experience was not successful, so they were happy to take the “trophy” off our hands.

Then, back at the Park, we gathered for dinner and to discuss the day’s events.  Most headed to their rooms, a cool shower and hopefully a good night’s rest.  Some folks tried to turn off the AC in their rooms, only to find the heat and humidity too unbearable for sleeping.  Even with the AC running, we could still hear the jungle come alive.  We heard a variety of birds and other unidentifiable noises all night long.  Not the best night of sleep we have ever had, but enough to prepare us for the morning excursion.

Ah, morning in the jungle….already hot and sticky.  Not sure I want that cup of joe this morning, decided to go with water (you can never drink enough here).   Most of us were waiting when the buffet opened at 7am.  We enjoyed the great selection of fresh fruit, cold cuts, cheeses, hard-boiled eggs and baked goods.  Then back to the room to gather our belongings and soak up a little more air conditioning as this morning we are heading out on our “jungle trek".  At least we do not need to climb into those little wooden boats again.

About 8am, we headed off.  Just behind the last cabin in the back section of the EcoLodge was a path that led into the jungle.  For the next two hours, we stepped over fallen trees, twisted tree roots, and slippery layers of decaying leaves, walked single file and stopped to hear about various plants, trees and insects.  For the first 30 minutes or so, the density of jungle grew as the trees became closer together and the greenery moved higher up as the vegetation reached upward seeking sunlight.

The variety of plant life was amazing.  So many different leaf shapes; different types of trees, and unidentifiable but colorful fungi.  We did not spot any wildlife, but we did not expect to.  The large mammals are sleeping and most birds remain in the tree-tops which are not visible due to the height and density of the jungle.  However, we did see and learn a lot about insects and, more specifically, ants.  These creatures do not seem to mind the heat and humidity, and continued the work at hand.  We saw leaf cutting ants, termites, and army ants.  We learned about Giant Hunting Ants.  They are used during a right-of-passage in some native Indian cultures.  The ants are placed on teen age boys who must endure the painful bites the ants inflict.

Unfortunately, some of our group had their own to close encounter with some ants.  As we gathered around a fallen tree to learn about a specific plant, some of the group suddenly complained of being bitten.  Apparently, several trekkers had brushed up against some ants as we stepped over a fallen tree a few yards back.  It turns out they were Burchell’s Army Ants.  These little guys come in two types, the minima worker and the soldier.  It seems we had stumbled upon the Soldier type “equipped” with very impressive mandibles.  They do not inject venom of any kind, but do attach themselves with a painful pinch.  Once they “let go” the pain goes away, and there is no bite mark or discomfort.  The trick is to get them to let go!  Although we were all wearing long pants and long sleeved shirts, none of us had tucked our pant legs into our socks (a recommendation made by Edi a little too late).  For most in the group, the ants had climbed up the inside of their pant legs making it difficult to make them “let go” and remove the offender.  We had a mini striptease moment as a few in the group had to “drop their drawers” to get the little buggers off!

Throughout the hike, our guide’s assistant, Danny, of Caiman catching fame, showed off some of his jungle skills.  He made a wreath out of long vine-like branches, wrapped it around his ankles and climbed  50-60 feet straight up a tree.  Natives would use this method to reach various nuts and seeds or to hunt.  Just like most activities in the jungle, hunting takes place at night.  Danny also showed us a large tree with a unique root structure.  It created hollow openings that can hide a grown man.  More importantly, when struck sharply with a stick, it produces a loud sound that can be heard for quite a distance.  This method was used to communicate with to ask for help if lost in the jungle.

After making our way back to civilization, we gathered our belongings, checked out, ate one last open-air meal and boarded a riverboat for the ride back to our bus and rejoining the ship.  Following a shower, the day ended early as we fell exhausted into bed.

Link to photos:

6/4-5/17 Ecolodge photos

It’s a SMALL village…Boca de Valeria. Brazil (6/3/17)

The Amazon treated us to a beautiful sunrise this morning.  As we continued to make our way to today’s port, we continued to see the effect of both the recent rains and the end of the wet season on the homes and land along the shoreline.  Due to the high water, actually visiting the village of Boca da Valeria was in doubt as the “available” dock might be underwater.   However, the excellent crew of the Navigator was able to make it work.

This port of call is a small Caboclo settlement that serves primarily as an opportunity for visitors to experience a small Amazonian village.  The town is reported to have a census of 75, but on days that a cruise ship visits, several hundred additional folks from surrounding villages come to act as guides and share their cultures.  Children bring their “pets” (various birds, insects, etc.) and offer to take you around the village and parents offer small boat rides out to the giant lily pads.  The village consisted of a school, a church and even what they call a “restaurant”.

As mentioned before, due to the lack of roads, the river is the primary mode of transportation for those who live here.  The locals that came to Boca da Valeria all came by boats of various sizes.  Some more “entrepreneurial” locals came right up to our tenders as they were loading and unloading passengers.  From their small vessels, they hawked handmade bracelets and necklaces and requested “donations” (knowing to ask for dollars).

We did not go ashore today, as it was a tender port and the weather was 100/100 (That’s 100 degrees with 100% humidity!)  We spent the day resting and loading on up water (hydrating . . .) for our two-day visit to the Ecolodge starting tomorrow morning.  Learning about the Caboclo heritage will be part of our experience on our overnight as will a visit to a native Caboclo home.  Caboclo is the term used locally for those born of the union of Portuguese fathers and native Indian mothers.  These unions were especially common during the time of the rubber boom in the Amazon. (more on this in a later posting)

The view of the small village was in stark contrast to some of the cities we then passed later in the day.  In addition to some significantly industrial areas, we noticed some very modern homes. 

Probably because we were well hydrated and rested, our team won trivia this afternoon, earning six additional “Regent reward points” (3 for each of us).  We are well on our way to that t-shirt!

Once again, we had a magnificent sunset.  Enjoy!

Link to today's photo:

Boca da Valeria, Brazil photos 6/3/17

More Amazing than I could imagine...Cruising the Amazon (6/2/17)

After leaving Macapa yesterday, we crossed the equator!  We did not realize this until the morning lecture.  We will cross back into the northern hemisphere when we depart the Amazon next week.  (It’s hard to check if the water in the toilet flushes in the opposite direction on cruise ship, so don’t ask.)

I started the morning by doing the “Bug Walk”, and we spent most of the day making regular trips to the top deck to marvel at the world around.

Nothing you may have read can really do justice to the Amazon.  The shoreline is ever changing, and it was difficult to step away for meals (and trivia).  Since we skipped our scheduled port for today, we traveled up the river all day.  Due to the recent rains, the low lands around the river are flooded.  Most of the homes are built on stilts so the flooding does not affect them.  We did see several fences rising out the water and herd of cattle grazing at the water's edge.  The river is really the only way to get from Point A to Point B as there are very few roads through the jungle.  We noticed boats by most homes and passed various types of vessels throughout the day.  The sunset was enjoyed from our balcony while sipping an adult beverage.

Today’s pictures are a best way to share the richness the Amazon has to offer.

Link to photos:

6/2/17 Cruising the Amazon photos

Home away from home

Since the last few days have been sea days, there has not been much in the way of things to photograph, but we have included a few shots of areas of the ship with this posting.  The Navigator is an older ship, but was refurbished just last year.  She is the smallest ship in the Regent fleet and is easy to get around.  You are never very far from where you want to be and quickly return to your cabin if you forgot something or want to drop something off.  We love the size and intimacy.  We quickly began to recognize almost everyone.

The Navigator was not designed to be a cruise ship and this does affect the ride of the ship.  She does not have the modern stabilization systems that the new cruise ships do and therefore you feel a lot more movement.  You can also feel the rumble and vibrations of the engines when you are towards the stern of the vessel.

The food and service is the best we have experienced recently.  The inclusive price makes meal times more enjoyable as we are not fumbling for our room cards to purchase drinks and wine.  Due to the limited space on the ship, the Navigator does not have an array of specialty dining rooms. The main dining room, The Compass Rose, is a beautiful place complete with Versace charger and bread plates.  You can opt to eat as a couple or you share a table and meet news guests at each meal.  The menu changes daily.  The other dining option available for all meals is LaVeranda.  It offers a few outside dining tables and uses the same shared table approach if you are interested.  It is primarily a buffet approach, but includes  a carving station at lunch.  For diner, it is transformed into Sette Mari, an Italian themed restaurant with the same menu every night. However, they do have different appetizers on the buffet each evening.

The other dining options are only available for specific meals.  Prime 7, the steakhouse themed specialty restaurant, is only open for dinner and is the only restaurant that requires or takes reservations.  The pool grill is open daily for lunch and frequently has “themed” food from noon-2pm (Sandwiches, Tex Mex, BBQ, Burgers, Stir-Fry, etc).  Room service is available 24 hours a day at no charge.

There are limited activities aboard on sea days, but we enjoy the daily trivia contests and other “skill” games (cornhole, ring toss, putting, etc).  We have caught up on a few movies we wanted to see as they are easily watched in your cabin.  Yesterday, we ordered pizza and watched “Founder” the story of Ray Kroc and McDonalds.  The one show we attended was enjoyable and we look forward to the seeing the new production shows.  The cast boarded with us in Miami and this is their first cruise.

6/2/2017 Home Away from Home photos

We have arrived...The Amazon (6/1/17)

Sometime during the night, we should have entered the mouth of the Amazon.  However, due to heavy rains the last 7-10 days, the current is much stronger than planned; we are now almost six hours behind schedule.  We actually made it into the River itself somewhere around noon.  The Amazon is distinctly different from the ocean sailing we have enjoyed since leaving Miami.   In addition to being a much smoother ride, the water is the color of coffee with cream (that would be a Regular for my Boston readers).  A quick trip topside this morning did not result in any wildlife sightings, but did give one an appreciation for the vastness and size of the Amazon.  Where we initially entered it is so wide that we can only see distant land on one side.  By mid-afternoon land was visible on both sides of the ship although quite a distance away.

Today we stopped in Macapa, Brazil, although this is not on our cruise itinerary.  Leaving the ship was not an option as we anchored off shore.  The stop is referred to as a Technical Stop and its’ purpose is twofold.  First, to allow Brazilian immigration officials to clear the ship for our travels up river and secondly to pick up two river pilot captains.  Since the river is ever-changing and no charting system can stay up to date, the ship is required to have a special river pilot on the bridge at all times (I guess they will be working 12 hours shifts).  Due to the currents we missed our scheduled 10am arrival time and did not arrive until 4:30pm.  Around this time, there was also a medical emergency on board.  Two passengers left the ship along with the ship's physician.  We can not proceed until the physician returns to the ship.  This will cause us to miss our next port of call, Santarem, originally scheduled for Friday.  The plan is to add this port to our return trip down the river and cancel a port of call with no scheduled excursions.  However, we had booked a private tour for this port and will be sorry that we won't be able to enjoy the additional tour.

A few other things have also changed now that we are “on the river”.  The ship is unable to produce its own fresh water due to the amount of silt in the river (the reason it has the distinctive light brown color).  We have been told to conserve water and will likely not be able to do laundry during our time here.  Fresh towels may only be available once daily and by the end of this stretch, we may be using paper napkins.  I guess I could offer to “shower with a friend”, but I’m not sure our shower stall can accommodate two at a time.

Our first Amazon wildlife sighting came very unexpectedly during lunch.  We were enjoying the Ribs, Ribs and more Ribs lunch at a poolside table when Mary noticed a bird on an upper deck railing.  A closer look found that the bird had a yellow breast.  A few pictures and a review of our Brazilian wildlife guide and our first sighting has been identified as a Tropical Kingbird.

The ship offered a wine tasting this afternoon.  Given that the sun is extremely strong, we decided to attend and visit with other guests.  Of note, the temperature is only 85 degress and the humidity is 66%.

We finished the day with our first Amazon sunset.  Beyond the sunset itself the sky has fantastic cloud formations.  After dark, the outside decks were closed and we were asked to make sure our drapes were closed tightly as the lights will attract lots of flying insects.   Our naturalist on board has suggested that we walk the ship first thing in the morning, if we like looking at these invertebrates.  I apologize now to those of you that might not enjoy some of my pictures.

Link to photos:
Entering the Amazon (6/1/17)